Birds are fans of littering, so the height of the cage should be at least 150 mm, this will provide you with relative cleanliness around the cage. The pallet must be removable so that it can be washed easily.
Cages for songbirds are best made closed, that is, the side, as well as the rear and upper walls are not made of rods, but of plywood.
It is advisable to use bamboo barbecue sticks as rods for the front wall, they are made of natural material and are strong enough to play the role of rods, and aesthetic enough to look beautiful at home. The door in the cage should be made large enough so that the bird after a walk could calmly flop into the cage without touching the wings of the rods on the sides of the door.
When keeping a bird at home, she lacks what she always gets in nature – ultraviolet (UV), which is mostly absorbed by window panes. This problem can be solved comprehensively: using lamps for birds with a UV range, and sunbathing, installing a cage in the warm season near an open window.
Attention! The lamp must be specially designed for birds! The use of others, including medical, domestic, terrarium and aquarium UV lamps is strictly not allowed!
For smooth daylight control, you can use digital timers that turn the lamp on and off at the right time. The lamp can be attached to the cage at an acceptable distance to the bird, or placed near the cage and its installation site.
Talking about prices is pointless, because the price very much depends on your desires, cell sizes and requirements for aesthetics. On average, the cost of materials excluding UV lighting is in the range of 2000-3000 rubles., Lighting is purchased separately and will cost a full set within 3500 rubles. You should also remember that you need to have a tool with which you will make the cell. Minimum set: drill, set of drills, hacksaw for wood and metal, screwdrivers, pliers, liquid nails and aquarium sealant with a gun. Consumables do not count.
You will also need materials.
Immediately it is worth considering that plexiglass is not always and not always sold exactly in the area and quadrature that you need, and plywood can be found less than 1, 5×1, 5 square meters. m. impossible to find at all. So pre-attend to the search for materials or be prepared for significant costs.
Step by step we make a cell the size of (LxWxH) 550x350x400
Please note that some points in the step-by-step description of the manufacture of the cell may seem too boring and unnecessary for you, but we dare to assure you that it is better to make the cell in this sequence, verbatim following the instructions to avoid the problems that we encountered in the manufacture of our first cells do it yourself.
Red highlights what you need to pay special attention to, and before you do it, understand why you need it that way.
- Plexiglas, 3 mm thick.
- 2 sheets – 150 x 350 mm; 2 sheets – 150 x 544 mm; 1 sheet – 344 x 544 mm or 1 sheet 1, 5 square meters. m
- Bakelite plywood 5 mm thick.
- 2 sheets 350×250 mm.
- Furniture fiberboard plywood 3 mm thick.
- 1 sheet 250×550 mm; 1 sheet 350×550 mm.
- Bamboo sticks at least 300 mm long. 1 pack
- Corner aluminum with a width of 20×20 mm – 4 m.
- Rivets 6-8 mm. – 2 pack
- Spherical head bolt M4 nut – 4 pcs.
- Furniture nails 15-20 mm. – 1 pack
- Liquid nails – 1 pc.
- Glue a la "Poxipol" – 1 pc.
- Aquarium sealant – 1 pc.
- Drill / driver;
- Set of drills;
- Hacksaw for metal;
- Wood hacksaw;
- Gun for rivets;
- Gun for sealant;
First of all, the pallet is going to. Side walls and the bottom are cut out of a single sheet, as a result of which 5 sheets should be obtained:
- 2 sheets – 150 x 350 mm;
- 2 sheets – 150 x 544 mm (550 mm – 6 mm; the thickness of two walls is 3 mm each);
- 1 sheet – 344 x 544 mm, respectively.
Next, saw the aluminum corner accordingly:
- 4 parts of 130 mm – wall height 150 mm, minus the width of the corner 20 mm;
- 2 parts of 350 mm – on each side the saw should be at 45 ° for the junction of the corners;
- 2 parts of 550 mm – on each side the saw should be at 45 ° for the junction of the corners;
We make sure that the parts of the corner with a length of 350 and 550 mm, when we put them together, form an even rectangle of the required length and width.
We drill holes for rivets, first in the corner. Attention! We’ll certainly drill closer to the edge, otherwise you won’t crawl with a rivet gun.
In a corner with a length of 150 mm – 2 holes with an indent of 30 mm from the edges.
In a corner 350 mm long – 3 holes. 2 holes indented 30 mm from the edges, one in the center.
In a corner with a length of 550 mm – 2 holes with an indent of 30 mm from the edges, and 3 holes evenly between them.
Then, in turn, starting from the corners of a long 350 and short side walls, applying a corner to the plexiglass, we drill into it through the holes in the corner. We immediately rivet the corner to the bottom of the side wall as soon as all the holes have been drilled. The long wall is drilled and riveted taking into account the displacement to the center of 3 mm from each end!
Attention, when riveting a corner to plexiglass, it is always necessary to pull the rivet with a gun from the side of the plexiglass, not the corner! Otherwise, the plexiglass will crack!
We make sure that everything develops without gaps (well, without large gaps, we are not at the factory, right?) In the design of the side walls, and that a sheet of 344 x 544 mm in size is included in this design. Next, we rivet the walls together. Ideally, the side walls should be free of gaps at the joints. Next, put the bottom inside, drill and rivet it. Here you have to sweat, because you have to drill from the outside, and plexiglass will lie from the inside.
Next, we make a chassis for attaching the upper part of the cage to the pallet. Looking ahead, we say that the fastening method will resemble the fastening of a regular bookshelf to a wall in an apartment.
On both sides of the pallet from the outside, we rivet a corner 310 mm long (350 wall length, minus a vertical corner 20 mm on each side) with a bend inward. In each corner we drill holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm, with indentation, from the edge of the front of the pallet 60 mm, from the edge of the rear of 40 mm. File, strictly parallel to the corner, we pierce a longitudinal groove 4-5 mm wide and 20 mm long towards the front of the cell from each hole.
The result should be the following:
We saw off two mating parts of the chassis, from the same corner, but with a length of 350 mm. We put them flush with the pallet so that the edges do not stick out (it will look like in the end) and move each of them towards the back of the cage by 20 mm (this is the depth of the grooves), then mark with a marker or pencil through the drilled holes in another corner of the place point their drilling. We take the counterparts of the corners and drill with a diameter of 4 mm, drill at these marked points. We twist / insert the bolts with a spherical head into the drilled holes, but not to the end, about 3 mm should remain between the bolt head and the corner. From the back we wind the nuts. To prevent the bolts from flying out, it is preferable to coat the thread, nut and place of contact of the nut and corner with “Poksipol” or similar glue like “cold welding”. This is for reliability, although you can not do this. Chassis ready. The principle of operation – we insert the bolt heads into the drilled holes and push it all the way to the front side. The length and width of the groove, if necessary, modify the file.
Next, we will make the upper part of the cell, and we will talk about it.
We make the side walls.
From bakelite plywood, we cut out 2 side walls with a size of LxW 347×250 mm.
In one of the sides with a length of 347, if necessary, we make cuts for the protruding nut and bolt from the chassis.
We drill three holes for the rivet in the corner (one in the center and two at the edges). We align the wall on the front side of the cage and drill holes in the corner for holes in the plywood. On the inside of the plywood (inside the cage) we make 2 mm deepenings with a drill of a larger diameter so that the rivet goes there. We do the second side in the same way. Riveting.
We file from a tree block with a section of 10×15 4 bars 540 mm long and pin two of them to the side walls at the corners in the 15 mm position horizontally and 10 mm vertically from the back of the cage at the corners of the side walls. The bar is pinned on each side with two furniture nails, so that it does not spin. The rear side members are ready, now the design is more or less stable.
We cut out the back wall from the furniture fiberboard plywood with a size of LxW 550×250 mm and pin it to the ends of the side walls, also with furniture nails, stitching every 50 mm.
We take the remaining two bars, we impose one on the other also in the position of 15 mm horizontally, 10 mm vertically, and drill with a 3 mm diameter drill in the center of the hole every 15 mm. One bar is drilled through, and the second to the middle! Here you need accuracy! Mark the depth on the drill or come up with a stopper to the desired depth. The bar that is drilled through is drilled the entire length, and the one that is half – with the exception of the middle, where there will be a door to the cage. The size of the door is 150×150 mm.
The bar that is drilled to half is pinned up at the bottom of the front side, and the one that is drilled through is from the top (I recall, on each side, with two furniture nails).
Next, we take bamboo sticks and insert them through the holes of the upper bar into the holes of the lower, except for the place where the door will be. Mark their length and cut with a hacksaw with small cloves.
Now let’s get to the door.
We cut out three bars. Two bars of size LxWxH 150x10x10, one 175x10x10. Now in turn. We drill two bars of 150x10x10 on one side at a distance of 7 mm from the edge through, then every 15 mm exactly to a depth of 5 mm (otherwise, then steam up), observing the step of the cage rods.
A bar 175х10х10 is drilled from both sides through at a distance
7, 5 mm from the edges, then on one side, exactly to a depth of 5 mm, observing the pitch of the holes in the bars 150x10x10. Further, if everything is strictly observed, then we cut 190 mm long bamboo sticks and insert them into the holes in the 150x10x10 bars, except for the through one. Check the evenness of the resulting door. Is everything right? Then we plant them on "liquid nails."
We cut bamboo sticks of 40 mm. We insert them into the holes of the bar 175 mm long, in addition to the through ones in the upper bar, we check the evenness of the structure.
It should be a kind of "dormer window" above the door. It does not matter? We plant them on "liquid nails" similarly with a door into a bar 175x10x10.
Next, we pull up the two long bamboo sticks that are extreme to the door, and through both we thread the 175x10x10 block with through holes, and only through one door (right or left – as you like).
Door round-trip klats-klats … Closes? Good. Doesn’t close? We are finalizing the file.
You should get something like the following:
As a stopper, a bamboo stick can be glued to the inside of the lower large bar. Are you an esthete? Then drill a hole with a depth of 7-8 mm in the lower bar, cut a bamboo stick 10 mm long, and paste it there to stick out by 2-3 mm. And in the lower bar of the door, make a cut so that the door closes strictly parallel to the structure.
Further, as is already probably clear, we cut out and nailed the roof. We cut a rectangle of 550×350 mm from the fiberboard and pin it to the bakelite plywood.
And you can make a removable roof. Then you need to rivet two corners to the side walls, bend inward, leave a gap of 4 mm from above, and push the roof in there.
But that is not all.
Now you need to do the ventilation.
In the back wall we drill ventilation holes. In the presence of imagination, the ventilation holes can be turned into a beautiful pattern.
At the very end of construction, we process the seams of the pallet with aquarium sealant.