The Corella parrot is rightly considered one of the most interesting species of feathered pets. In addition to a very elegant appearance, these birds are distinguished by excellent learning ability and can become a true friend for an attentive and caring owner. The content of Corella involves the acquisition of a serious accessory – cells. From how strictly the basic requirements for the housing of a feathered inhabitant will be met, its comfort, health and life expectancy will depend. Consider the features of the selection and manufacture of cages for these parrots.
How to choose the right cage for Corella parrots
In order to determine the choice of a cage, it is necessary to obtain at least the most general information about the bird for which it is intended.
A cage for a corolla must match both the size and nature of the parrot.
The body length of an adult can reach 33 cm, the wingspan is 38 cm, which is approximately two times the average size of a budgie.
In addition, in the wild, corals never settle in tropical thickets, preferring an open space to a dense forest. For this reason, for this type of parrot, it’s important not just a spacious, but a spacious dwelling (ornithologists note that these birds are actually better kept in enclosures, and not in cages, but in any case, you need to strive for the largest possible size of the dwelling, especially if we are talking about a few birds).
Experts talk about the following minimum cell sizes:
- length – 60 cm;
- width – 40 cm;
- height – 70 cm.
The main parameter in the cage is not height, but length, because the bird does not fly from top to bottom. Lack of horizontal space can cause the Corella to injure its luxurious wings or break its tail.
As you know, cages for parrots can have a round, square or rectangular base. The cylindrical shape of the dwelling looks very beautiful, but in this case the tastes of the owner and his pet do not coincide at all. In the absence of angles, parrots feel uncomfortable, disoriented and nervous. In addition, fingering along the bent rods, the bird will constantly slide off, which is fraught with injuries.
The material from which the cell is made must meet the following requirements:
- environmental Safety;
- smoothness (so that the bird is not injured against sharp edges, corners, protruding objects);
- possibility of quick cleaning.
From this point of view, everyone’s favorite tree for naturalness and environmental friendliness as a material for a bird house is not suitable.
Caring for it is quite complicated, it is difficult, it is inconvenient to wash and clean such material, and in addition, dangerous pests can easily get into it. It is impossible to process boards with special antiparasitic materials – they can cause poisoning in the feathered tenant.
Plywood is a lighter material, but also has its drawbacks. As an acceptable option, you can consider a MDF wood fiber slab due to its high environmental friendliness or a thinner fiberboard.
Nevertheless, such materials are suitable only for a pallet and only in the case of making a dwelling for a bird in a handicraft way, however, even in this situation it is better to use modern chemical industry products – plastic or organic glass.
It is important to make sure that the material is strong enough: the bird is unlikely to be able to damage it, but its owner, during harvesting or simply by passing it, is quite likely.
It is good if the design of the pallet will include high sides. In this case, the vital products of the parrot will not spill out of the cage and spread throughout the house.
Some models provide for the presence of an additional grate, which is placed on top of the pallet, preventing poisoning of the bird by peeling off stale food mixed with its own litter (this garbage passes through the grate and becomes inaccessible to the parrot).
In addition, this will help the paws of the bird to always remain dry and clean. Many owners of parrots do not welcome this design, believing that the Corella can be injured by horizontal bars at the bottom of their house, but in reality the likelihood of such an accident is very small, and the advantages are obvious.
As for the walls and the roof, it is best to give preference to stainless rods or mesh, and the distance between the rods (cells) should be at least 20 mm so that the parrot could not stick its head through the rods and get injured.
Suitable place for a cage in an apartment
A city apartment or even a private house is not a natural habitat for a parrot. In such conditions, a bird is waiting for danger literally on every corner. That is why it is very important not only to choose the right cell, but also to correctly determine the place where it will be located.
Not suitable for installing a bird house:
- remote rooms where people rarely go;
- a kitchen where food is prepared and a lot of steam is present (evaporation from Teflon cookware is especially dangerous for birds);
- rooms where it is often too noisy, especially if such noise arises unexpectedly (for example, music or “loud” electrical appliances turn on sharply);
- places exposed to direct electromagnetic and radio waves (near electrical appliances, personal computers, WiFi routers, etc.);
- areas in the immediate vicinity of heating appliances – dry and warm air adversely affects feathers;
- blown places – parrots can take out cold air, but from a draft they instantly start to hurt and can even die;
- windowsill or close proximity to the window – in this place it is especially cold in winter and too hot in summer, when the window is open, a draft occurs, and the noise coming from the street will scare the budgie.
Corella is a very sociable bird, even among outgoing parrots, so she should be able to observe the events around him, listen to human voices and other sounds and take part in all this to the extent possible.
Do not place the cage in the middle of the room: if one or two sides of the dwelling are firmly pressed against the wall, its occupant will feel much more protected and less vulnerable. The fact is that a locked bird cannot hide from potential danger, as it does in the wild, which means that it should be able to retire from prying eyes in a securely protected area if something scares her.
Since even the most attentive owner cannot spend all his time with his feathered friend, care must be taken to ensure that the bird can entertain itself by itself.
In order that the water in the cage does not dry out and is not contaminated with droppings, food residues and other garbage, it is better to purchase an automatic drinking bowl made of organic or ordinary glass or plastic. In such a container, water retains its freshness for a long time. When using open drinking bowls, their contents should be constantly monitored and water changed daily, and preferably even twice a day.
When filling the drinker, you should take care that the water has a room temperature, since cold liquid can lead to digestion disorders in the parrot, and a warm one will not give him pleasure and quench his thirst. It is also better not to use tap water, the best option is bottled water for baby food or just purified water.
The next accessory worth buying for your pet is a bathtub for bathing. It should not be kept in a cage all the time, but at least once a week, especially in the warm season, the bird should be given the opportunity to take a water treatment. At the end of the bath, the bath should be removed immediately so that the bird does not drink dirty water and does not get sick.
Of course, the bird cage needs to be equipped with various pitches and perches. In the case of Corella, there should be at least two of them. They should be placed at different heights, with the top attached almost above the ceiling. If the size of the cage is minimal, more than four perches should not be placed in it, since redundant objects will limit the already small space for the feathered inhabitant.
Preservation of the health of the parrot will be provided by soft wood stems (willow or birch, can be directly with the kidneys). Soft rope ropes are also suitable. From plastic and bamboo, poultry corns appear on the paws, and from sandpaper, which is sometimes wrapped by roosters for sewing claws and beaks, even bloody wounds.
It’s good if the hearts have different thicknesses, this will also provide excellent gymnastics for the legs of the parrot. Mounting perches should be rigid: in the process of rocking the cockatiel, it can injure long wings or tail.
It should also be understood that zerdochki is a consumable. Parrots are happy to nibble them, it is very useful for the digestive system of birds, so periodically such accessories will need to be updated.
You can diversify the life of a winged pet by equipping the cage with various toys. The easiest option is a small mirror or a bell. But do not get carried away: first of all, the parrot needs the spaciousness of its home.
DIY cage for parrots
A good cage for a parrot is quite expensive, especially when it comes to housing for a relatively large and active bird. But, with patience and some skills, you can easily make an excellent alternative cell variant with your own hands.
Detailed instructions for constructing a cage for a corella are given below.
Tools and materials
To make the cage we need:
- unpainted wooden boards or a sheet of plywood for making the bottom;
- a grid with a height of at least 70 cm – 2.5 linear meters (we compare the exact dimensions with the selected parameters of the cell and the size of its bottom);
- a jigsaw, an electric saw or a machine for cutting wood (plywood);
- drill or electric drill;
- a sheet of paper for making a drawing;
- pen or pencil;
- stainless steel piano furniture hinges;
- construction stapler;
- sandpaper or sandpaper for sanding the bottom.
The manufacturing process of the cell step by step involves the following steps:
- We start with the drawing – we determine on paper the initial dimensions of the details of the future cage – the pallet, walls, roof.
- If a ready-made pallet is not used, at the initial stage it is necessary to produce it. From a tree or plywood, using a jigsaw or saw, we cut a rectangle of the required length, three lateral parts of the pallet (one long and two short, at least 10 cm wide), as well as three slats for installing the mesh – the same length as the sides and the height 2-3 cm. The fourth long side bar should have a smaller width than the other three so that the cage can be cleaned.
- Using glue, we fasten the base of the pallet with three sides (the fourth will be installed at the last stage). Glue a bar to each side of the sides to install the grid.
- Cut out the side posts. We will need eight planks of a given height about 6 cm wide.
- We glue the racks in pairs in the form of the letter "G".
- Using nippers, we cut out four walls from the grid for the future cell.
- With a pencil or pen, mark the places for holes on the side walls in accordance with the grid cells.
- We arm ourselves with a drill and drill holes according to the prepared markings.
- Insert the wire rods into the finished holes on both sides. We perform in this way two long walls.
- Glue the side walls into the base of the pallet.
- Using a hammer and nails, we nail two horizontal strips to the top of the long walls (the end of the grid should remain outside).
- We nail the remaining fourth part of the pallet so that its upper part coincides with the other three sides, and the lower one is 3-4 cm above the bottom (it will be convenient to remove debris from the cage through the gap created).
- We fix the side walls on the outside of the pallet with horizontal strips.
- Insert the two remaining fragments of the mesh (short cell walls).
- With the help of nails, we fix the grid on the inside of the cage with the side planks.
- We turn to the design of the ceiling. We bend the protruding edges of the long walls of the mesh to the sides and fix them on pre-nailed horizontal planks using a construction stapler.
- We nail three transverse ones to the long side planks of the ceiling – two along the edges of the cell and one in the center.
- We bend and fix with the help of a construction stapler the upper ends of the grid on the two remaining short walls.
- Getting to the manufacture of the upper door. It will occupy one half of the ceiling. We cut out a piece of a grid of the required size with a pair of pliers and attach its ends with a construction stapler to two wooden planks (they should be located on the short sides of the door).
- We attach a furniture loop to one of the trims.
- Using a screwdriver, attach the second half of the loop to the prepared opening on the roof of the cage, thus installing the door.
- It remains to muffle the second half of the roof with a grid – we cut out the necessary fragment of the grid and attach it along the perimeter to the cell ceiling with the help of a construction stapler.
- The door on the ceiling is intended for the owner. Using this hole, you can install and change the plugs, as well as other accessories inside the cage. A parrot needs a visible and understandable door on the wall. It can be made from the same grid, having previously cut the necessary hole in the wall with the help of wire cutters and inserting the finished door into it (it is easiest to fix it by making loops from the rods of the grid and bending them accordingly).
- As the final stage, we make a sliding tray. For this, a fiberboard sheet is suitable, and to make it convenient to remove, you can fix a transverse bar (profile) on one of its sides. She will close the bottom gap between the pallet and the net, preventing the parrot from trying to get out.